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type:: reference zettel-id:: 25c parent-id:: 25r created:: 2025-05-24 - # Wardrobe Systems - ## Core Concept - A repeatable wardrobe framework using a tightly‑edited neutral palette, purposeful textures, and named outfit formulas to remove daily decision fatigue while ensuring every look feels premium and photo‑ready. - ## Urban Neutral Ops Palette - **Core Colors** - **Olive / sage** → outer layers & statement pieces - **Charcoal & obsidian** → trousers, mid‑layers, shoes - **Bone / off‑white** → tees, waffle knits, summer shirts - **Black (sparingly)** → accents, belts, watch faces - **Slate/iron blue** → optional tonal pop that reads neutral - **Texture Strategy** – Mix structured (waffle, corduroy, ripstop) with smooth (silk, jersey) for depth without prints - **Color Ladder Pairings** – Olive ↔ Bone / Olive ↔ Charcoal / Slate ↔ Bone; avoid olive + black unless layering texture - **Buying Filter** – New garment must match ≥2 core colors and at least one existing anchor piece - **Laundry Rules** – Wash bone tees separate from darks; olive fades gracefully; black pieces hang‑dry - **Photography Tip** – Choose bone or olive tops at golden hour; obsidian bottoms ground the shot - ## Named Formulas & Experiments - **Active Formulas** - **Looks/Olive Charcoal Lift** — Olive bomber + charcoal waffle crew + dark‑rinse denim + white courts (status: locked → repeat) - **DNL v0.9** — Navy linen overshirt + white tee + khaki chinos + sand Chelseas (status: needs overshirt steam) - **SSM v1.0** — Stone linen shirt + slate chinos + white courts (status: ready for lookbook) - **ITB v0.8** — Ink‑navy polo + terracotta shorts + white courts (status: shorts inseam test 7″ vs 10″) - **CMD v1.0** — Cream linen camp + bone denim + white courts (status: cuffs shorten ½″ & add sand belt) - **Looks/Amalfi Drift** — White linen camp + khaki chinos + white courts + tortoise Persol (cream/khaki/white palette) - **Shopping Pipeline** | Item | Formula tie‑in | Status | |------|---------------|--------| | White/navy gum retro trainer | DNL / ITB | Prime cart | | Sage knit polo | Future Seersucker Sage Set | TBA | | Clay terracotta shorts (7″) | ITB | Try‑on scheduled | | Sand braided suede belt | CMD / AD | TBA | | Lululemon ABC chinos (Obsidian) | OCL/DNL | ✓ Complete | | Lululemon ABC chinos (Silver Drop) | SSM/CMD | ✓ Complete | | Tortoise Persol 649 sunglasses | AD | Shopping list | | Lunya silk slip dress & robe (XS) | For Saie | TBD | - **Fit‑Check Log** - **2025‑05‑19** — Lululemon ABC 5‑Pocket Slim (both colors, size 32); passed sit/knee‑bend test ✔︎ - **2025‑05‑19** — Warpstreme relaxes ½‑size after first wear; stick with 32 ✔︎ - **2025‑05‑08** — Linen camp + bone denim → "Amalfi" vibe ✔︎ - **2025‑05‑09** — OCL coffee shop photo → bomber sleeve push confirmed ✔︎ - **2025‑05‑10** — ITB knit polo too clingy after wash → size up to L? ☐ - ## Fabric Tactics - **Guiding Principles** - **Texture > tone** – When garments share color values, differentiate with weave: waffle, rib, seersucker, suede - **Seasonal breathability** – Linen, cotton‑linen blends, open‑knit polos for 60°F+; merino/suede below 55°F - **Anchor + contrast** – Pair one "flat" fabric (denim, twill) with one textured (waffle, chambray) - **Touch memory** – Premium hand‑feel (suede, cashmere) signals quality in muted palettes - **Fabric Reference** | Fabric | Best Use | Pair With | Watch‑Outs | |--------|----------|-----------|------------| | **Linen (plain)** | Camp shirts, overshirts | Slate chinos, khaki shorts | Needs steaming; wrinkles = charm | | **Waffle/Honeycomb** | Crews/henleys in monochrome | Flat denim or chinos | Bulkier under jackets | | **Seersucker** | Sage short‑sleeve (upcoming) | Off‑white trousers | Bold stripes fight patterns | | **Chambray** | Light‑blue overshirt | Stone chinos, bone denim | Avoid same‑weight denim | | **Suede (split)** | Sand Chelseas, trucker | Flat cotton tees/knits | Requires protector spray | | **Tech Stretch** | State & Liberty chinos | Linen shirts | Slight sheen—balance with matte | - **Maintenance** – Linen: cold wash, hang dry, steam / Suede: brush weekly, cedar trees / Waffle knits: dry flat - ## Footwear Rotation - **Core Lineup** | Alias | Style | Color | Use‑Case | Status | |-------|-------|-------|----------|--------| | **WLC** | Minimal cup‑sole sneaker | Optic white | Daylight casual, brunch | In rotation | | **WNG** | Retro trainer, gum sole | White/navy | Vintage vibe for OCL, ITB, DNL | Prime order | | **SSC** | Sand suede Chelsea | Sandstone | Smart‑casual dinner, rooftop | In rotation | | **BSL** | Brown suede loafer | Cocoa | Polished dinner, no‑sock summer | Wishlist | | **TSE** | Tan espadrille | Natural canvas | Resort, harbor stroll | Wishlist | - **Decision Rules** – White for light palettes & shorts / Brown suede for evening/structured layers / Gum sole adds character - **Care Schedule** – Wipe soles after wear / Deep clean monthly (Jason Markk) / Suede: brush & spray every 6 weeks - ## Closet Directory Protocol - **Core Tagging System** - **Palette tags**: `#palette/olive`, `#palette/charcoal`, `#palette/obsidian`, `#palette/bone`, `#palette/black`, `#palette/slate` - **Status tags**: `#closet/active`, `#closet/archive`, `#closet/donate`, `#closet/repair` - **Season tags**: `#season/spring‑summer`, `#season/fall‑winter`, `#season/year‑round` - **Current Inventory Highlights** - Olive bomber jacket (Bonobos, M) → OCL anchor piece - Charcoal waffle crew (Buck Mason, M) → structured texture for monochrome - Lululemon ABC chinos (Obsidian & Silver Drop, 32 waist, hemmed no‑break) - White courts (Original Achilles) → universal formula support - Sand Chelsea boots (Astorflex) → DNL formula completion - **Shopping Priorities** – Sand braided belt, gum trainers, sage polo, packable windbreaker - **Maintenance** – Add items immediately post‑purchase / Update tags during quarterly reviews / Archive pieces outside palette - ## Styling Techniques - **Daily On‑Body Adjustments** - **Micro Half‑Tuck** – Two‑inch front‑hem wedge into waistband, blouse out; shows waist, hides belly - **Neckline Pop** – Two fingers, tug collar forward/up 1cm; elongates neck, relaxes rigid crews - **Sleeve Push** – Slide to mid‑forearm; exposes taper, prevents stacking - **Visual Refinement** - **Vertical Lines** – Open jackets, half‑zipped bombers slim torso - **Color Echo** – Match metal hardware (watch, belt, bag) for cohesion - **Texture Contrast** – Matte knits with smooth bottoms avoid flat monochrome - **Pre‑Mirror Checklist** 1. Apply half‑tuck technique 2. Create neckline pop 3. Push sleeves to position 4. Check hardware alignment 5. Verify vertical lines - ## Implementation Workflow 1. **Identify anchor piece** (weather, venue) → pull matching formula alias 2. Confirm Urban Neutral Ops palette fit; swap within color ladder if needed 3. Run sit/knee‑bend test on new bottoms; hem to micro‑break in store 4. Texture‑check: if top & bottom share tone, upgrade one to waffle/rib/tech 5. Log new permutations with photo and alias 6. Refresh accessories: mixed‑metal balance, scent harmony 7. Review system bi‑weekly and patch learnings - **Sizing Protocols** - Every trouser must pass sit/knee‑bend comfort test - Warpstreme relaxes ½‑size after first wear - Hemming standard: no‑break with micro‑break (free at Lululemon) - Size up if post‑wash cling occurs - **Accessory Guidelines** - Mixed‑metal stack within three‑tone max (Cartier signet, titanium Apple Watch, slim gold curb) - Couple‑coordination: complementary hues without matchy‑matchy - Fragrance should harmonize with outfit vibe - ## Open Questions / TODO - [ ] Complete tortoise Persol 649 purchase for AD formula - [ ] Test sage polo + off‑white trouser combo; assign alias - [ ] Evaluate brown suede loafer after Chelsea cost‑per‑wear drops <$3 - [ ] Source "café‑au‑lait" waffle knit as oatmeal alternative - [ ] Trial silk‑linen blend to elevate CMD for evening events - ## Related Links - Skincare Systems - Health & Performance Systems - 2025-05-19 – Session Summary Appearance & Style Updates